Reclaimed Hardwood Flooring That Tells a Story Underfoot
Tongue-and-groove flooring milled from antique hardwoods, available through partner suppliers in our network. Heart pine, white oak, maple, walnut, and hickory in widths from 3 inches to 10 inches, with the patina, nail holes, and character marks of old wood.
Choose Your Hardwood
Each species brings a different color palette, hardness rating, and grain character to your floor. Ask partner suppliers what is available in your preferred width and profile.
White Oak
1,360 lbf
Warm honey to golden brown
Pronounced grain, ray fleck on quarter-sawn faces, occasional mineral streaks
Living rooms, dining rooms, high-traffic commercial spaces
Red Oak
1,290 lbf
Pinkish to reddish-brown
Strong cathedral grain pattern, open pore structure
Bedrooms, hallways, traditional interiors
Heart Pine
1,225 lbf
Deep amber to reddish-orange
Dense resinous heartwood, tight growth rings, nail holes and patina from age
Feature floors, historic restorations, high-end residential
Hard Maple
1,450 lbf
Creamy white to light tan
Subtle fine grain, occasional bird's eye or curly figure
Modern interiors, studios, kitchens, light-filled spaces
Black Walnut
1,010 lbf
Rich chocolate brown to purplish-black
Dramatic sapwood contrast, flowing grain, occasional burl
Luxury residential, executive offices, feature rooms
Hickory
1,820 lbf
Blonde to medium brown with dramatic variation
Extreme color variation board-to-board, rustic grain, very hard
High-traffic areas, rustic interiors, commercial installations
Pricing is by quote from partner suppliers and depends on grade, width, finish level, and quantity. Request a quote for your specific project.
Widths, Thicknesses & Profiles
Reclaimed flooring comes in several profiles. Thickness of 3/4 inch with tongue-and-groove edges is the common standard, and 1/2 inch is used for some renovation overlays. Ask partner suppliers what is available.
Standard Profile — 3/4" T&G
3/4" thick tongue-and-groove with micro-bevel edges. Face-nail or blind-nail installation. The standard for new construction and full renovation.
Overlay Profile — 1/2" T&G
1/2" thick tongue-and-groove for installing over existing subfloors with minimal height gain. Ideal for renovation projects where door clearance is a concern.
End-Matched — T&G on All 4 Sides
Tongue-and-groove on all four sides for minimal waste and faster installation. Allows end joints to fall anywhere, not just on joists.
Ship-Lap Edge (for Wide Plank)
Overlapping rabbet joint for extra-wide planks (8"+) where tongue-and-groove may cause installation difficulty. Face-nail installation. Period-correct for historic restorations.
Square-Edge (Custom)
No tongue or groove — boards are glued down edge-to-edge for a contemporary look. Requires glue-down installation on a perfectly flat subfloor.
Width Options
Classic look, fastest installation, minimizes waste in narrow rooms
Versatile width that works in both traditional and transitional interiors
A common width that balances visual impact with material efficiency
Opens up floor visually, showcases grain patterns and character marks
Maximum visual impact, often seen in heart pine and oak. Depends on the width of the source material
A mix of 3 or more widths for an authentic, period-correct installation
Floor Finish Comparison Guide
Your choice of floor finish affects appearance, durability, maintenance, and indoor air quality. Here is a detailed comparison to help you choose the right finish for your space and lifestyle.
Hardwax Oil
Residential living spaces, bedrooms, dining rooms
Good — repairable spot treatment
Recoat high-traffic areas every 2-3 years
Easy to repair, natural look, enhances grain
Less resistant to standing water than polyurethane
Oil-Based Polyurethane
High-traffic commercial, kitchens, entryways
Excellent — hard surface film
Screen and recoat as wear shows, often every 7-10 years
Maximum durability, excellent water resistance, long recoat intervals
Ambering over time, difficult to spot-repair, higher VOC
Water-Based Polyurethane
Light-colored woods where ambering is undesirable
Very good — clear surface film
Screen and recoat as wear shows, often every 5-7 years
Fast dry time, minimal color change, low odor
Slightly less durable than oil-based poly, may raise grain on some species
Paste Wax
Low-traffic rooms, historic restorations, period-correct finishes
Moderate — soft protection
Reapply every 6-12 months
Authentic historic look, very easy to apply, deepens patina over time
Requires frequent maintenance, not suitable for high-traffic areas
Unfinished
Custom color matching, on-site finishing by professionals
None — raw wood
Must be finished on-site
Maximum flexibility for custom staining and finish selection
Requires professional finishing on-site, adds to project timeline
What Affects Flooring Cost
The total cost of a reclaimed hardwood floor includes material, milling, delivery, installation labor, and finish. Pricing is by quote from partner suppliers, and these are the factors that move it.
Species and Rarity
Hard-to-find species such as heart pine and walnut usually cost more than common oak or maple, because less of the material turns up.
Grade and Width
Cleaner grades and wider boards take more selection, and wide planks depend on wide source material.
Milling Loss
Turning old boards into flooring removes material through de-nailing, surfacing, and profiling, so more wood goes in than comes out.
Waste and Overage
Character-grade and random-width floors can produce more cutting waste. Plan for overage in your quantity.
Installation Labor
Wide planks, face-nailing, patterns, and subfloor repairs can all add labor compared with a standard strip floor.
Finish
Site finishing, the number of coats, and the finish system all affect the total, as does prefinishing if a supplier offers it.
Request a quote for your specific project.
Finish Comparison Matrix
Six finish options compared side by side. Your choice of finish affects appearance, durability, repairability, indoor air quality, and long-term maintenance.
Oil-Based Polyurethane
Yes - strong water protection, and ambering enhances warm tones
Water-Based Polyurethane
Good for light woods (maple) where ambering is undesirable
Hardwax Oil
A strong fit - enhances grain, easy to repair, preserves character
Tung Oil
Traditional choice - deepens patina
Paste Wax
Suits historic restorations and period aesthetics
Unfinished
Maximum flexibility for custom color and finish matching
Sound & Acoustic Properties
Wood flooring affects room acoustics differently than carpet or tile. Wood floors reflect sound rather than absorbing it, creating a brighter, more open room.
For multi-story buildings, condominiums, and commercial spaces where sound transmission matters, the underlayment beneath the flooring makes a real difference. Below are common assemblies.
Hardwood over plywood subfloor
A standard assembly with no added sound treatment. Often acceptable in single-family homes, but footfall carries to the room below.
Hardwood with cork underlayment
Cork helps reduce impact sound. Worth considering for second-floor installations and condominiums.
Hardwood with rubber underlayment
Rubber underlayment is another common way to reduce impact noise. Check compatibility with your installation method.
Hardwood with acoustic mat over concrete
Common over occupied spaces in offices, retail, and multi-family buildings.
STC = Sound Transmission Class (airborne sound). IIC = Impact Insulation Class (footfall noise). Higher numbers are better. Many condo associations set minimum ratings for hard-surface flooring, so check yours before you order.
Installation Methods
Reclaimed hardwood flooring can be installed using any of the three standard methods. Your choice depends on your subfloor type, flooring thickness, and project requirements.
Nail-Down
The traditional and most common method for reclaimed hardwood flooring. A pneumatic flooring nailer drives cleats through the tongue at a 45-degree angle, securing each board to the subfloor. This method provides the most solid feel underfoot.
Plywood or OSB (3/4" minimum)
3/4" flooring
- Most secure attachment
- Best for 3/4" solid flooring
- No adhesive mess or cure time
- Industry standard — any flooring contractor can install
- -Requires wood subfloor (not concrete)
- -Pneumatic nailer rental or purchase
- -Some species require pre-drilling near ends
Glue-Down
Full-spread adhesive bonds flooring directly to the subfloor. The best option for concrete slab installations where nailing is not possible. Creates a very quiet floor with minimal hollow spots.
Concrete slab, plywood, or existing hard surface
1/2" or 3/4" flooring
- Works on concrete slabs
- Quieter — no hollow spots
- Works with thinner 1/2" stock
- Good for radiant heat systems
- -Messy installation process
- -Adhesive adds cost
- -Difficult to remove later
- -Moisture testing of concrete is critical
Floating
End-matched flooring laid over a foam or cork underlayment without fastening to the subfloor. The floor "floats" as a single unit. Less common with solid reclaimed hardwood but possible with end-matched profiles.
Any flat, clean surface
1/2" or 3/4" (end-matched required)
- Fastest installation method
- No nailing or gluing required
- Easy to remove and reinstall
- Works over radiant heat
- -Requires end-matched boards
- -May feel less solid underfoot
- -Not ideal for very wide planks
- -Expansion gaps required at all walls
Subfloor Requirements
A proper subfloor is the foundation of every successful flooring installation. Here are the requirements for each subfloor type.
Plywood (3/4" CDX or better)
Nail-down or glue-down
The preferred subfloor for reclaimed hardwood. Must be securely fastened to joists with no squeaks or flex. Check flatness — max 3/16" variation over 10 feet.
OSB (3/4")
Nail-down or glue-down
Acceptable subfloor but plywood is preferred. OSB holds nails less well than plywood. Ensure all seams are tight and the surface is clean.
Concrete Slab
Glue-down only (or floating)
Must be fully cured, clean, flat, and dry. Test slab moisture and follow the flooring and adhesive manufacturers' limits. Apply a moisture barrier if needed.
Existing Hardwood
Glue-down with 1/2" overlay
Sand existing floor to roughen the surface for adhesion. Ensure the existing floor is stable and not cupping. Height transitions at doorways may require adjustment.
Radiant Heat System
Glue-down or floating
Follow the heating system and flooring manufacturers' instructions for shutdown before installation and restart afterward. Bring the temperature up gradually, and keep surface temperature at or below 85 degrees F.
Recommendations by Room
Every room has different demands. Here are suggestions for species, width, and finish based on the typical requirements of each space.
Living Room
White Oak or Heart Pine
5" - 7"
Hardwax oil (satin)
The showcase room. Wide planks make a strong impression. Hardwax oil enhances grain while allowing easy spot repairs.
Kitchen
White Oak or Hickory
4" - 5"
Oil-based polyurethane
Needs water resistance and durability. Harder species and a protective polyurethane film handle spills and foot traffic. Avoid walnut — too soft for kitchens.
Bedroom
Any species
5" - 8"
Hardwax oil or paste wax
Low traffic allows softer species like walnut and pine. Wide planks add warmth. Check the VOC level of any finish you choose.
Bathroom
White Oak (quarter-sawn preferred)
3" - 5"
Oil-based polyurethane or marine-grade oil
Only water-resistant species should be used. Quarter-sawn white oak contains tyloses that block moisture. Narrow widths minimize expansion. Seal all edges.
Entryway / Mudroom
Hickory or White Oak
4" - 5"
Oil-based polyurethane
The highest-wear area in most homes. Choose the hardest species available and the most durable finish. Consider character-grade material where scratches blend in naturally.
Office / Study
Black Walnut or Hard Maple
5" - 7"
Hardwax oil
A chance to use a species that makes a statement. Walnut for warmth and richness, maple for bright modern spaces. Chair mats recommended for rolling casters.
Commercial Space
White Oak or Hickory
4" - 6"
Commercial-grade polyurethane
High traffic demands the hardest species and most durable finish. Follow the finish manufacturer's coat recommendations. Character-grade material hides wear patterns.
Acclimation Instructions
Proper acclimation is critical for a successful reclaimed flooring installation. Follow these steps to give your floor the best chance of staying flat and tight.
Deliver to the Installation Space
Have the flooring delivered directly to the room where it will be installed. Do not store in a garage, basement, or any space with a significantly different temperature or humidity.
Break Open All Bundles
Remove banding and spread boards loosely so air can circulate around each piece. Stack on stickers (thin wood strips) between layers to allow even air exposure on all faces.
Maintain Room Conditions
Keep the installation space at normal living conditions: 60-80 degrees F, 30-50% relative humidity. Run the HVAC system as you normally would. Avoid acclimating in an unheated or unconditioned space.
Allow 5-7 Days Minimum
Reclaimed flooring may already be close to indoor moisture levels, but do not assume it. Allow at least 5-7 days for the wood to equilibrate with your specific room conditions.
Test Before Installing
Use a pin-type moisture meter to verify flooring MC (target: 6-9%) and subfloor MC (target: within 2-4% of flooring). If the difference exceeds 4%, continue acclimating.
Maintenance Guide
Reclaimed hardwood flooring is remarkably durable, but proper maintenance extends its beauty for generations.
Daily Care
Sweep or vacuum regularly to prevent grit from scratching the surface. Use felt pads under all furniture legs. Place mats at all exterior doors to catch dirt and moisture.
Weekly Cleaning
Damp-mop with a hardwood floor cleaner appropriate for your finish type. Never use a wet mop or steam cleaner — excess water is the enemy of all hardwood floors.
Seasonal Maintenance
Monitor indoor humidity — use a humidifier in winter (when heating dries the air) and a dehumidifier in summer if needed. Target 30-50% relative humidity year-round.
Hardwax Oil Floors
Spot-repair scuffs and wear patterns by lightly sanding the affected area and reapplying oil. Full maintenance coats every 2-3 years for high-traffic areas. No full sanding required.
Polyurethane Floors
Screen (lightly abrade) and recoat every 7-10 years depending on traffic. Avoid spot repairs — the entire floor should be screened and recoated uniformly.
Waxed Floors
Reapply paste wax every 6-12 months. Buff to desired sheen. Avoid water-based cleaners on waxed floors as they can leave a hazy film.
Before You Order Checklist
Use this checklist so a partner supplier has what they need to give an accurate quote.
Radiant Heat Compatibility
Reclaimed hardwood flooring is compatible with radiant heating systems when installed and operated correctly. Here are the key requirements.
Ask About Flooring Samples
Looking at your top 2-3 species side by side in your actual space is the best way to choose. Mention samples in your request and ask partner suppliers what is available.
Request SamplesA Floor Made From Wood Already Cut
Reusing old flooring and timber avoids cutting and milling new wood for that floor. Wood stores carbon while it stays in use, and a well-kept hardwood floor can stay in service for a very long time.
Green Building Projects
Green building programs such as LEED can recognize reused materials. Rules change, so check the current requirements with your project team, and ask partner suppliers what records exist for the material.
Flooring FAQ
How much extra should I order beyond my measured square footage?
Plan on 10% extra to account for cutting waste, irregular room shapes, and spare boards for future repairs. For diagonal installations, plan on 15-20% extra.
Can reclaimed flooring be sanded and refinished?
Generally yes. Standard 3/4" solid flooring can usually be sanded and refinished several times over its lifetime. Thinner overlay flooring allows fewer sandings. Old boards may have been sanded before, so check the remaining wear layer.
Will the character marks (nail holes, patina) disappear when sanded?
Light sanding preserves most character marks. Nail holes and deeper marks will remain visible, but surface patina can be lost. To keep as much character as possible, consider a skip-planed surface with an on-site oil finish rather than heavy sanding.
Is reclaimed flooring safe for children and pets?
Ask about the history of the material. Old wood may carry paint or other coatings, and old paint can contain lead, so test anything painted before sanding. Choose a low-VOC finish for indoor air. Harder species like hickory and oak resist scratches from pet nails better than softer species.
Can I mix species in one installation?
Yes. Mixing species (for example, oak and walnut borders) is a classic design technique. Make sure all species are the same thickness and profile.
Read Before You Install
Maintaining Reclaimed Wood Flooring
Cleaning schedules, humidity targets, and repair planning for long-term performance.
Moisture Content and Stability
Why acclimation and moisture testing matter before installation starts.
True Cost of Reclaimed vs New
Compare cost factors, lifecycle value, and maintenance expectations.
Ready to Request Reclaimed Flooring?
Tell us your species preference, square footage, desired width, and finish level. We pass your request to partner suppliers, and a partner supplier follows up on availability and pricing. Delivery is available through partner suppliers.