Frequently Asked Questions

Partner suppliers in our network. Lumber Minneapolis is a referral service: we take requests from buyers and sellers in Minneapolis-St. Paul and the Twin Cities metro, and we pass them to partner suppliers. The suppliers own the wood, set the prices, and do the work.

No. We own no yard, mill, or trucks, and we do not stock lumber. If you want to see material in person, ask the partner supplier who follows up whether that can be arranged.

Reclaimed lumber is wood recovered from existing structures rather than harvested from living trees. It commonly comes from old barns, warehouses, factories, and other buildings. Older pieces can have the tight grain of old-growth timber that is hard to find in new lumber.

These terms are related but distinct, and people use them loosely. Reclaimed lumber comes from existing structures such as barns, factories, and warehouses, and is prepared for new use. Salvaged lumber often means wood from trees that fell naturally, were damaged by storms, or were removed for development, so it was never part of a building. Recycled lumber is a broader term that can include wood waste, such as pallets, crates, and construction scraps, that is reprocessed into new products, sometimes chipped and reformed rather than used as solid boards. Ask partner suppliers which of these they handle.

Species commonly found in reclaimed lumber include white oak, red oak, Douglas fir, longleaf and heart pine, white pine, elm, maple, walnut, and hemlock. Rarer woods such as American chestnut turn up occasionally. What is available changes over time and depends on partner suppliers, so ask for what you want.

Typical sources are barns, warehouses, grain elevators, and industrial buildings being taken down, along with homes being renovated. The white pine era left old timber in many Minnesota buildings. Where any particular lot came from is a question for the supplier selling it.

These terms describe how a log is cut into boards, and each method produces different grain patterns and performance characteristics. Flat-sawn (also called plain-sawn) is the most common and economical cut. The log is sliced tangentially, producing cathedral or flame-shaped grain on the face. It tends to cup with moisture changes. Quarter-sawn lumber is cut roughly perpendicular to the growth rings. This produces straight, parallel grain lines and, in species like white oak, reveals medullary ray fleck. Quarter-sawn boards move noticeably less than flat-sawn boards. Rift-sawn is cut at an angle between the two, producing very straight grain with little ray fleck, and it generates more waste during milling. Reclaimed quarter-sawn boards are valued for their stability and grain.

A board foot (BF) is a measure of volume: it equals a piece of wood 1 inch thick, 12 inches wide, and 12 inches long (144 cubic inches). Board feet account for the thickness and width of the lumber, making it the standard pricing unit for hardwoods. The formula is: BF = (Thickness in inches x Width in inches x Length in feet) / 12. A linear foot (LF) is simply a measure of length — one foot of board regardless of width or thickness. Linear feet are commonly used for trim, molding, and decking where the profile is standardized. To convert linear feet to board feet, multiply by the board width (in inches) times thickness (in inches), then divide by 12. For example, 10 linear feet of 1x6 = 10 x 6 x 1 / 12 = 5 board feet.

Send a request through the quote form with your species, dimensions, quantity, and location. We pass your request to partner suppliers in our network, and a partner supplier follows up with availability and a quote. You buy directly from that supplier.

You can send a request. We do not buy lumber ourselves, but partner suppliers may. Describe the species if you know it, along with the quantity, condition, and location. Renovation tear-outs, barn wood, and surplus construction lumber are common examples. Any offer comes from the supplier, who sets the price.

There is no minimum to send a request. Whether a single beam or a large quantity makes sense depends on the partner supplier, so ask.

We have no yard to visit. Ask the partner supplier who follows up whether you can see the material. If you can, bring your project measurements, any samples you want to match, and photos of the space where the wood will go.

Ask partner suppliers what is available. A sample is a good way to judge species, color, and grain in your actual space before you commit.

As early as you can. Reclaimed supply depends on what has come out of buildings, so a specific species, a large quantity, or an unusual size can take time to find. Send your request well before you need the material, and include your target date.

Reclaimed wood can be planed, ripped, resawn, or profiled into tongue-and-groove or shiplap at a mill. We do not mill wood, so ask partner suppliers what is available, or take the job to a local mill that accepts reclaimed wood. Many mills want the wood de-nailed and scanned for metal first.

Each partner supplier sets its own terms, so ask before you buy and keep the answer in writing. Wood that has been cut, milled, or installed is usually hard to return with any seller.

No. This site does not take orders or payments. It takes quote requests, which we pass to partner suppliers. The supplier who follows up can send you photos of the material if you ask.

That depends on the supplier, the material, and any preparation it needs. If you have a deadline, put it in your request, and confirm it with the supplier before you schedule other work around it.

It can be. Old-growth timber grew slowly, which often means tighter grain and denser wood than fast-grown new lumber. Strength still varies from piece to piece, and old wood can hide damage such as cracks, notches, and bolt holes. For anything structural, have the actual pieces assessed.

Each supplier has its own process. Typical steps include de-nailing, scanning for metal, and checking for rot, insect damage, and moisture. We do not inspect or handle the wood, so ask the supplier what they have done and look at the material yourself.

Milling turns rough timber into usable boards. Typical work includes planing to thickness, ripping to width, tongue-and-groove or shiplap profiling, S4S surfacing, and resawing thick timbers into thinner boards. Allow for what is lost along the way, since reclaimed boards lose some thickness and width to milling.

Yes, it can. Wood from pre-1978 structures may have lead paint, and some industrial buildings used chemical treatments. Ask the supplier about the source of the wood and any coatings on it. If you are concerned about a specific piece, have it tested, particularly if it will be used in a home or near children. Do not sand or plane unknown paint without proper precautions.

Treat paint on wood from pre-1978 buildings as a possible hazard until it has been tested. Lead test kits and testing laboratories are available. Sanding, planing, or burning painted wood can release lead dust or fumes. If lead is found, the simplest choice is usually to avoid using that wood indoors. For guidance, check the current advice from the EPA and the Minnesota Department of Health.

Nails, screws, and staples are usually located with a metal detector and pulled by hand, with tools such as nail pullers, end nippers, and drift punches, to limit damage to the wood. This matters because hidden metal can ruin saw blades and planer knives. Ask a supplier whether the wood has been de-nailed. Even then, scan it yourself before you cut it.

Air-dried reclaimed lumber often reads around 10-14%, depending on where it has been stored. Interior projects like flooring, paneling, and furniture usually need around 6-8%. Exterior projects can tolerate more, often 12-15%. Ask the supplier for a reading, or check it yourself with a moisture meter.

Skip-planed lumber has been lightly run through a planer to remove loose fibers and reveal the grain, without creating a fully smooth surface. The result shows its aged character, such as saw marks and patina, while being cleaner to handle. It suits accent walls, ceiling treatments, shelving, and furniture where character is the priority. For surfaces that need to be fully smooth, S4S (surfaced four sides) is the usual choice.

Look for fresh exit holes, fine sawdust-like frass, and live insects. Frass that keeps appearing after you sweep it away is a warning sign. Old, inactive holes are often only cosmetic. Heat can kill insects: the ISPM 15 heat treatment standard for wood packaging requires 56 C at the core for 30 minutes. Ask the supplier whether the wood has been kiln-dried or treated, and keep suspect wood away from your home until you know.

Care depends on the use. For indoor installations like flooring and accent walls, regular dusting and an occasional maintenance coat of the original finish will do. For outdoor use, apply a UV-protective exterior finish and renew it when it starts to fail. Keep untreated pieces away from excess moisture.

Yes, it can, but structural use requires proper assessment. Old beams may have splits, notches, or bolt holes that affect their strength. For load-bearing work, consult a licensed structural engineer who can evaluate the specific pieces, and check current regulations with your local building official.

It can, but careful selection and preparation are essential. The wood needs to be properly dried, and narrower boards and quarter-sawn or rift-sawn stock are generally more stable. Wide softwood planks are more likely to gap. Engineered flooring with a reclaimed face layer is another option. Follow the radiant system and flooring guidance on temperature limits, and bring the system up gradually.

Yes, and it is a common approach. Reclaimed wood goes in visible places such as tabletops, accent walls, and mantels, while new dimensional lumber handles framing and hidden parts. Match thickness and width so pieces align cleanly, acclimate both to the same environment, and expect the new wood to change color as it ages. Some designers contrast reclaimed and new wood on purpose.

Requirements vary, and regulations change. Reclaimed lumber used structurally usually needs some form of grading or engineering assessment. Check current regulations with your local building official before you specify it, and involve a licensed structural engineer where needed.

Store reclaimed lumber indoors in the space where it will be installed, or in a space with similar temperature and humidity. Stack boards flat with stickers (small spacer strips) between each layer to allow air circulation on all faces. Keep the stack off the floor on a level surface. Avoid garages, unheated spaces, and spots directly against exterior walls, where moisture and temperature fluctuate. Kiln-dried wood stored outdoors or in unconditioned spaces will take up moisture again and may warp, cup, or swell. For outdoor project materials, covered and ventilated storage is fine.

Yes, though the results differ from new wood because of the aged surface and varying density. Test your stain on a sample piece first, since reclaimed wood absorbs stain unevenly. For a more uniform color, sand to fresh wood first. For painting, use a stain-blocking primer to prevent tannin bleed, especially with oak and cedar, then apply your topcoat. If the wood already has old paint on it, see the lead paint question above before you sand. Many people leave reclaimed wood unfinished or apply a clear oil or wax.

Acclimation lets wood reach equilibrium moisture content with its installation environment. Bring the lumber into the room where it will be installed, and stack the boards flat with sticker strips between each layer so air can circulate on all faces. Keep the stack off the floor on a level surface. This often takes one to two weeks, but go by the meter rather than the calendar. For interior projects, wood is typically within about 2% of its in-service moisture level, often 6-9% in Minnesota homes. For flooring, follow the guidance on the difference between the flooring and the subfloor. Rushing this step is a common cause of gaps, buckling, and cupping.

Patina is the aged color, weathering, and surface character of reclaimed wood. To preserve it, follow a few principles. First, do not over-sand: sand lightly, just enough to smooth the surface without removing the aged layer. Second, consider penetrating finishes such as tung oil, Danish oil, or hard wax oil, which soak in rather than build a thick film on top. Third, avoid stripping: chemical strippers and aggressive sanding remove patina permanently. Fourth, in sunny areas, a clear coat with UV absorbers can slow color change. Some species, such as cherry and walnut, will keep changing color over time regardless.

Beyond a standard woodworking kit, a few tools help. Essentials are a handheld metal detector for finding hidden nails, carbide-tipped saw blades, safety gear (N95 or better dust mask, safety glasses, and hearing protection), and a moisture meter. Nice-to-have tools are a thickness planer, a random orbital sander, and a brad or flooring nailer. Run your metal detector over every board before cutting, even if the wood has been de-nailed, because a single missed nail can ruin an expensive blade.

Often it can be matched closely, though rarely perfectly, because reclaimed wood varies. If you are extending flooring or replacing damaged boards, include the dimensions in your request, and have a photo ready for the supplier. Ask partner suppliers what is available. For the best result, blend a few new boards into different areas rather than installing them all in one section, which makes small differences less noticeable.

Pickup and delivery are available through partner suppliers. We do not run trucks. Delivery is arranged with the supplier you deal with, and any cost is part of their quote. See our transportation page for more.

No. Deconstruction means taking a structure apart carefully to recover its materials, as opposed to demolishing it. If you have a building coming down, you can send a request about selling the wood, and a partner supplier can say whether it interests them. A contractor would need to carry out the work itself.

Raise it early, because supply depends on what has come out of buildings. Describe the species, character level, and quantities, and allow for natural variation. Requirements for reused materials vary between green building rating systems and versions, so check the current ones. Ask partner suppliers what samples and source information are available.

The method depends on your project type. For flooring and wall paneling, calculate the square footage of the area (length times width), then add 10-15% for cutting waste (20% for diagonal or herringbone patterns). Convert to board feet by multiplying square footage by the board thickness in inches. For beams and timbers, measure the required length and cross-section, then calculate board feet using the formula: (thickness x width x length in inches) / 144. For furniture, create a cut list of every piece, calculate the board feet for each, and add 15-20% for waste and defects. Our resources page has worksheets for these calculations.

For non-structural uses such as accent walls, paneling, and trim, reclaimed wood is generally treated like any other finish material, although fire and finish rules can apply in commercial buildings. For structural uses, expect to need documentation, and possibly an engineer's review. Check current regulations with your local building official before you start.

Reusing a beam avoids cutting and milling a new one, and wood stores carbon while it stays in use. Reuse also keeps usable material in service instead of sending it to a landfill. The size of the benefit depends on the project, including how far the wood has to travel and how much processing it needs.

Yes. Lumber is heavy, so moving it uses fuel. Local reclaimed wood usually has a shorter trip than material shipped from far away, but that varies, so sourcing close to your project helps. Ask a supplier where the wood came from.

Outdoor wood faces moisture, UV light, temperature extremes, and Minnesota freeze-thaw cycles. White oak is a common choice: its closed pores resist water absorption, and it suits fencing, pergolas, and outdoor furniture with proper finishing. Eastern red cedar contains natural oils that resist insects and decay, is easy to work with, and suits raised garden beds, fence pickets, and outdoor trim. It weathers to silver-gray if left unfinished. Species to avoid outdoors include red oak, whose open pores absorb water, and white pine and maple, which rot readily. Whatever the species, seal end grain, and use a penetrating exterior finish rather than a film-forming polyurethane, which can trap moisture and peel.

Softwood has an R-value of roughly 1.25 per inch of thickness, whether reclaimed or new, and denser hardwoods are lower. That makes a 3/4-inch wall plank worth about R-0.9. Wood alone does not insulate like dedicated insulation materials, so it should not be relied upon as the sole source of insulation value for exterior walls or ceilings.

We do not set prices. Pricing is by quote from partner suppliers and depends on species, grade, dimensions, and availability. Common species tend to be closer to new lumber than rare ones, while old-growth species and large timbers can cost more because they are hard to find. Milling, if needed, is a further cost.

We do not offer one, because we do not sell the wood. Any terms come from the partner supplier, so ask before you buy. Reclaimed wood is a natural product, and knots, checking, nail holes, and color variation are part of its character.

It depends on the species and what you compare. Look past the price per board foot. Reclaimed wood can lose more to defects and milling waste, and may need more labor because of hidden metal and uneven boards. Against that, it offers character and sizes that are hard to get in new lumber, and a weathered surface may need less finishing. Compare the cost of the finished project, including waste, labor, and finish.

Beam pricing comes from partner suppliers by quote. It usually depends on species, cross-section, length, and character, and larger beams are harder to find. Hand-hewn surfaces, any milling, and structural assessment can also affect the cost.