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Resources & Guides

Practical information on reclaimed lumber: how to measure it, identify it, install it, and care for it on your next project.

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Tools & Resources

Start with the FAQ or the blog, or scroll down for formulas, species guides, worksheets, and care advice.

Frequently Asked Questions

Get answers to the most common questions about buying, selling, and working with reclaimed lumber. Covers species, grading, moisture, installation, and how quotes work.

Detailed questions and answers
Organized by category: buying, quality, installation, pricing
Honest answers about how the referral service works
Practical advice for Minnesota conditions

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Blog & Articles

Practical articles on reclaimed lumber, building with reused materials, DIY project ideas, and Minneapolis lumber history.

Guides to buying and working with reclaimed wood
DIY project ideas
Minneapolis lumber history
Species spotlights and wood science guides

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Quick Reference

Lumber Math Cheat Sheet

The essential formulas and conversion factors you need to estimate materials and plan a reclaimed lumber project. Bookmark this page for quick reference.

Board Feet (BF)

BF = (T" × W" × L′) / 12

The standard measurement for hardwood lumber. Thickness in inches, width in inches, length in feet.

Linear Feet to Board Feet

BF = LF × (W" × T") / 12

Multiply linear feet by the width and thickness (both in inches), then divide by 12.

Square Feet to Board Feet

BF = SqFt × T"

Multiply square footage by the board thickness in inches. For T&G, multiply by the coverage factor first.

Weight Estimate (Oak)

≈ 4 lbs per Board Foot

White and red oak run about 4 lbs/BF when dry. Use for load planning and vehicle capacity. Wet wood weighs more.

Weight Estimate (White Pine)

≈ 2 lbs per Board Foot

Eastern white pine is among the lighter common species at a little over 2 lbs/BF when dry.

Weight Estimate (Heart Pine)

≈ 3.4 lbs per Board Foot

Longleaf and heart pine are much denser than white pine, at around 3.4 lbs/BF when dry.

Weight Estimate (Fir)

≈ 2.8 lbs per Board Foot

Douglas fir averages about 2.8 lbs/BF when dry. Dense old-growth fir can run a little heavier.

Waste Factors by Pattern

Always add a waste factor to your calculated board footage. The percentage depends on the complexity of the installation pattern.

10%waste

Straight Runs

Standard waste for straight, parallel board installation — flooring runs, wall paneling, simple shelving.

15%waste

Angled Cuts

Diagonal layouts, 45-degree accent walls, mitered frames, and any project requiring frequent angle cuts.

20%waste

Herringbone / Chevron

Complex repeating patterns require more cuts per board and generate more short offcuts that cannot be reused.

Coverage Factors for Profiled Boards

When boards are milled with tongue-and-groove, shiplap, or nickel-gap profiles, the net coverage per board differs from the nominal width. These are typical examples for a board 5.5 inches wide. Actual coverage depends on the profile, so measure a sample before you order.

Profile	Nominal Width	Net Coverage	Multiplier	Notes
1×6 Tongue-and-Groove	5.5"	5.25"	1.048×	The tongue is hidden in the groove, reducing net coverage by approximately 0.25 inches per board.
Shiplap	5.5"	5.125"	1.073×	The rabbets overlap, so each board covers less than its full width.
Nickel-Gap	5.5"	5.125"	1.073×	A shiplap-style overlap with a small reveal gap. Coverage depends on the profile.

Identification

Species Identification Quick Guide

Learn to identify the 15 most common reclaimed wood species by color, grain pattern, weight, and smell. Each entry includes key identifying characteristics that will help you recognize species in the field.

White Oak

Golden brown

Closed pores (tyloses visible under magnification)
Passes the water test — holds water in end grain
Prominent medullary rays on quarter-sawn faces
Heavy, hard, and dense with a mild vanilla-like scent

Red Oak

Pinkish tan to light brown

Open pores (no tyloses — absorbs a water drop instantly)
Visible ray fleck on quarter-sawn, though less prominent than white oak
Lighter and slightly softer than white oak
Mild grain odor, no distinctive scent

Heart Pine

Orange-amber to deep honey

Dense, resinous, extremely heavy for a softwood
Strong pine resin smell when freshly cut
Tight growth rings — often 20-30 per inch in old-growth
Distinct contrast between amber heartwood and cream-colored sapwood

Douglas Fir

Red-brown to salmon pink

Distinct straight grain with moderate texture
Moderate weight — lighter than hardwoods, heavier than most pines
Often shows dramatic cathedral grain on flat-sawn faces
Slight resinous scent, less intense than pine

White Pine

Light cream to pale straw

Very soft and lightweight — easily dented with a fingernail
Even, fine texture with minimal grain contrast
Mild, sweet smell when freshly cut
Darkens to a warm honey tone over decades of exposure

Eastern Red Cedar

Reddish to purple-brown heartwood

Strongly aromatic — unmistakable cedar scent
Light to moderate in weight
Knots are common and typically tight and dark
Natural oils make it naturally resistant to insects and decay

Hemlock

Even light brown to tan

Non-resinous with no distinctive smell
Moderate weight, softer than fir
Straight, even grain with fine texture
Often confused with fir but lacks the reddish cast

American Elm

Tan to medium brown

Interlocked grain that makes it extremely tough to split
Moderately heavy with a coarse texture
Often shows a wavy, interlocking grain pattern on faces
Sapwood and heartwood color are similar, making it difficult to distinguish

Hard Maple

Creamy white to very light tan

Very fine, uniform grain with a subtle sheen
Extremely heavy and hard — resists denting
End grain shows fine, evenly distributed pores
Occasionally shows curly or bird's-eye figure

Black Walnut

Rich dark chocolate brown

Open, moderately coarse grain
Moderate weight — lighter than oak but heavier than pine
Heartwood is dramatically dark compared to pale sapwood
Produces a distinctive earthy, slightly bitter smell when cut

American Chestnut

Warm brown, often with worm tracks

Lightweight for a hardwood — surprisingly light in hand
Wormy character from old insect trails is common and prized
Very rare — chestnut blight destroyed the mature trees, so most lumber today is reclaimed
Straight grain, coarse texture, excellent workability

Hickory

Light cream with dark brown streaks

Extremely hard and heavy — among the hardest domestic species
Dramatic color contrast between heartwood and sapwood
Coarse, open grain similar to oak but without ray fleck
Flexible and shock-resistant — historically used for tool handles

Cherry

Reddish-pink, darkening to deep red-brown

Fine, straight grain with a satiny sheen
Moderate weight and hardness
Darkens dramatically with UV light exposure over weeks and months
Occasional gum pockets and mineral streaks add character

Ash

Light tan to pale brown

Similar to oak in appearance but without visible medullary rays
Lighter in color than most oaks with more consistent tone
Ring-porous — visible growth rings with open earlywood pores
Moderate weight, excellent shock resistance

Poplar

Greenish-white to olive heartwood

Lightweight and soft — one of the softest hardwoods
Heartwood often has a distinctive green or purple streaky cast
Fine, even texture with straight grain
Easy to work with hand and machine tools, takes paint well

Planning

Project Planning Worksheets

Step-by-step worksheets for the most common reclaimed lumber projects. Follow the steps, plug in your numbers, and arrive at a material estimate before you send a quote request.

Flooring Worksheet

Measure room length and width in feet

Calculate square footage: L × W = SqFt

Choose your waste factor: 10% (straight), 15% (diagonal), 20% (herringbone)

Adjusted SqFt = SqFt × (1 + waste factor)

Convert to Board Feet: Adjusted SqFt × thickness in inches = BF

Choose your species and grade

Include the board footage in your quote request

Example

A 12′ × 14′ room = 168 sqft. Add 10% waste = 184.8 sqft. At 3/4" thick = 138.6 BF.

Accent Wall Worksheet

Measure wall height and width in feet

Calculate square footage: H × W = SqFt

Subtract window and door openings

Choose pattern: horizontal (10% waste), diagonal (15%), herringbone (20%)

Apply waste factor and convert to BF

Choose species and finish

Include the board footage in your quote request

Example

A 10′ × 14′ wall with one 3′ × 5′ window = 125 sqft. Horizontal pattern +10% = 137.5 sqft. At 3/4" thick = 103 BF.

Beam Worksheet

Determine required span length

Consult an engineer for load calculations and required cross-section

Size the beam: width × depth × length

Calculate BF: (W" × D" × L′) / 12

Choose species based on structural and aesthetic needs

Calculate weight: BF × lbs/BF for species

Plan how the beam will be moved and placed

Example

An 8" × 10" × 16′ Douglas fir beam = 106.7 BF. At 2.8 lbs/BF = 299 lbs. A beam this heavy needs a plan for lifting and placing it safely.

Furniture Worksheet

Design piece and create a cut list of all components

Calculate BF for each component: (T" × W" × L′) / 12

Sum all components for subtotal BF

Add 15-20% waste factor for defect cutting and fitting

Choose species based on appearance and durability

List hardware needs: fasteners, hinges, slides, etc.

Select finish: oil, polyurethane, wax, or paint

Example

A farmhouse dining table (42" × 84" top, 2" thick) = 49 BF for the top alone. Add legs, apron, and stretchers ≈ 20 BF. Plus 20% waste = 82.8 BF total.

Deck Worksheet

Calculate deck surface area in square feet

Add railing length in linear feet if applicable

Calculate framing BF: joists + beams + ledger + rim

Calculate decking BF: surface sqft × board thickness + 15% waste

Choose species with outdoor durability (white oak, cedar)

Add fastener count: approximately 350 screws per 100 sqft

Plan for finish: exterior oil, sealant, or leave to weather

Example

A 12′ × 20′ deck (240 sqft) with railing on 3 sides (44 LF). Decking at 1-1/4" thick with 15% waste = 345 BF. Framing ≈ 180 BF. Railing ≈ 60 BF. Total ≈ 585 BF + fasteners + finish.

Sweep or vacuum daily to prevent grit from scratching the finish. Damp mop weekly with a pH-neutral wood floor cleaner — never use excessive water. Place felt pads under all furniture legs and use mats at entryways. Refinish every 7-10 years by screening (light sanding) and applying a fresh coat of polyurethane or oil. For oil-finished floors, reapply maintenance oil annually.

Exterior Siding Maintenance

Inspect annually for signs of moisture intrusion, cracking, or finish failure. Clean with mild soap and a soft brush — avoid pressure washing above 1,200 PSI. Re-seal or re-stain every 2-3 years, or sooner if water no longer beads on the surface. In Minnesota, pay special attention to south- and west-facing walls, which receive the most UV and weather exposure. Freeze-thaw cycles can drive moisture into unsealed end grain — seal all cut ends during installation.

Beam Care

Dust quarterly with a soft cloth or vacuum with a brush attachment. Check connections (bolts, brackets, hangers) annually and tighten as needed. Monitor checking — small cracks that develop along the grain are normal and cosmetic in most cases. If checking is excessive or structural, consult an engineer. For decorative beams, apply a clear penetrating oil every 2-3 years to maintain color. Never paint over character — it cannot be undone.

Furniture Care

Use coasters under all drinks and hot dishes. Apply felt pads under decorative objects to prevent scratches. For oil-finished furniture, apply a maintenance coat of the same oil annually — tung oil, Danish oil, or linseed oil depending on the original finish. Avoid placing furniture in direct sunlight for extended periods, as UV light can bleach or darken the wood unevenly. For polyurethane-finished pieces, clean with a damp cloth and avoid harsh chemicals.

Countertop Care

For butcher block countertops, apply food-safe mineral oil monthly for the first year, then quarterly thereafter. Wipe spills immediately — standing water is the enemy. Sand and re-oil annually, or whenever the surface feels dry or looks dull. Use cutting boards for food preparation to prevent knife marks. For epoxy-sealed countertops, simply clean with a damp cloth. Avoid placing hot pots directly on any wood countertop — always use a trivet.

Barn Door Maintenance

Check hardware monthly for the first year, then quarterly. Tighten all mounting bolts and screws. Lubricate the track and rollers annually with a dry silicone spray — avoid oil-based lubricants that attract dust. Adjust the bottom guide seasonally, as the door may shift slightly with humidity changes. If the door sticks or binds, check that the track is level and the rollers are clean. For exterior barn doors, seal all surfaces including edges and end grain.

Deck Care

Sweep regularly to remove debris that traps moisture. Power wash annually at low pressure (under 1,500 PSI) with a fan tip — never use a zero-degree nozzle on wood. Re-stain or re-seal every 2-3 years. In Minnesota, check fasteners each spring after the freeze-thaw cycle, as frost heave can loosen deck screws and joist hangers. Replace any boards showing signs of structural rot. Apply end-grain sealer to any new cuts made during maintenance.

Accent Wall Care

Dust monthly with a microfiber cloth or vacuum with a soft brush attachment. Avoid hanging heavy objects without first locating studs or blocking behind the planks — toggle bolts can pull through thin reclaimed boards. Touch up finish as needed with the same product used during installation. If the wall receives direct sunlight, expect gradual color change (darkening for most species, lightening for walnut). A UV-protective clear coat can slow this process.

Wood Science

Understanding Wood Movement

Wood is a hygroscopic material — it constantly absorbs and releases moisture from the surrounding air. This causes dimensional changes (expansion and contraction) that every woodworker and installer must account for. Planning for wood movement is a big part of a successful reclaimed lumber installation.

Why Wood Moves

Wood cells are like tiny tubes. When humidity is high, these tubes absorb moisture from the air and swell. When humidity is low, they release moisture and shrink. This happens primarily across the grain (width), not along the grain (length). A board may change significantly in width over the course of a year but barely change in length at all.

In Minnesota, equilibrium moisture content (EMC) varies dramatically by season: 6-8% in winter when heated indoor air is very dry, and 10-12% in summer when humidity rises. This 4-6% swing in MC translates directly to measurable dimensional change in your installed wood.

How to Plan for Movement

Expansion gaps: Leave 1/4" to 3/8" gaps at walls, cabinets, and other fixed objects when installing flooring. These gaps are hidden by baseboards and transitions.

Board width: Wider boards move more in total than narrow ones. Where stability matters, choose narrower boards or quarter-sawn stock.

Proper fastening: Use slot-screwed cleats or elongated screw holes on tabletops to allow the top to expand and contract without cracking.

Reclaimed wood still moves: Decades in a building mean old wood is usually well seasoned, but it still responds to humidity like any other wood. Acclimate it before installation.

Seasonal Movement by Species

A general comparison of how much flat-sawn boards move across the grain as humidity changes through a Minnesota year. Quarter-sawn boards typically move noticeably less.

Species	Movement Level	Notes
White Oak (flat-sawn)	Moderate-High	Quarter-sawn white oak moves noticeably less and is a common choice where stability matters.
Red Oak (flat-sawn)	Moderate-High	Moves about as much as white oak. Narrower boards or quarter-sawn stock improve stability.
Heart Pine (flat-sawn)	Moderate	Moves less than the oaks across the grain. Still allow for movement on wide boards.
Douglas Fir (flat-sawn)	Moderate	A moderate mover. Wider boards need proper fastening to limit cupping.
White Pine (flat-sawn)	Low-Moderate	Among the more stable common species, though wide boards still need room to move.
Hard Maple (flat-sawn)	Moderate-High	Responds readily to humidity changes. Allow proper expansion gaps for flooring.

Reference

Lumber Knowledge Base

Quick reference charts, conversion tables, and grading summaries — everything you need at your fingertips when planning a reclaimed lumber project.

Wood Species Comparison Chart

Compare the hardness, typical uses, and general reclaimed availability of common species. Availability changes, so ask partner suppliers what they have.

Species	Janka (lbf)	Best For	Availability
White Oak	1,360	Flooring, furniture, beams	Common
Red Oak	1,290	Flooring, cabinetry, trim	Common
Heart Pine	1,225	Flooring, paneling, countertops	Moderate
Douglas Fir	660	Beams, siding, framing	Common
Longleaf Pine	870	Flooring, decking, structural	Limited
White Pine	380	Paneling, shelving, accent walls	Common
American Elm	830	Furniture, turning, mantels	Moderate
Hard Maple	1,450	Flooring, countertops, butcher block	Moderate
Black Walnut	1,010	Furniture, mantels, accent pieces	Limited
Eastern Red Cedar	900	Closet lining, outdoor projects	Moderate
American Chestnut	540	Paneling, flooring, furniture	Rare
Hemlock	500	Framing, siding, beams	Common

Dimensional Lumber Size Reference

Nominal sizes vs. actual dimensions, plus board feet per linear foot for quick material estimation. Note that reclaimed lumber may differ slightly from modern standards — many vintage boards are closer to true nominal dimensions.

Nominal Size	Actual (Modern)	Board Feet / Linear Foot
1 x 4	3/4" x 3-1/2"	0.33
1 x 6	3/4" x 5-1/2"	0.50
1 x 8	3/4" x 7-1/4"	0.67
1 x 10	3/4" x 9-1/4"	0.83
1 x 12	3/4" x 11-1/4"	1.00
2 x 4	1-1/2" x 3-1/2"	0.67
2 x 6	1-1/2" x 5-1/2"	1.00
2 x 8	1-1/2" x 7-1/4"	1.33
2 x 10	1-1/2" x 9-1/4"	1.67
2 x 12	1-1/2" x 11-1/4"	2.00
4 x 4	3-1/2" x 3-1/2"	1.33
6 x 6	5-1/2" x 5-1/2"	3.00
8 x 8	7-1/2" x 7-1/2"	5.33

Board Foot Conversion Quick Reference

A board foot is the standard unit for measuring hardwood lumber. Use this formula to calculate board feet for any piece of lumber.

Formula

Board Feet = (T x W x L) / 144

Where T = thickness in inches, W = width in inches, L = length in inches. For length in feet, use: (T x W x L) / 12.

Quick Examples

1" x 6" x 8' = 4 board feet
1" x 12" x 10' = 10 board feet
2" x 6" x 12' = 12 board feet
2" x 10" x 8' = 13.3 board feet
6" x 6" x 10' = 30 board feet
8" x 8" x 12' = 64 board feet

Pro Tip: Always Add a Waste Factor

When estimating material for a project, add 10-15% to your calculated board footage to account for cutting waste, defects, and fitting. For complex patterns like herringbone flooring, increase the waste factor to 20%.

Grading Standards Summary

Reclaimed lumber is graded differently than new lumber. Here is a quick overview of the grading terms you are likely to meet.

NHLA Hardwood Grades

FAS: Highest grade. 83%+ clear face. Minimum 6" wide, 8' long.
Select: One clear face. Minimum 4" wide, 6' long.
#1 Common: 66% clear. Good for shorter cuttings.
#2 Common: 50% clear. Economical, character-rich.

Common Reclaimed Terms

Select: Minimal character marks, tight grain, few knots.
Character Grade: Knots, nail holes, checking, and patina present.
Rustic Grade: Heavy character, large knots, visible history.
Structural Grade: Assessed for load-bearing use. Terms vary by seller.

Structural Grading

Visual Grading: Assessed by eye by a qualified grader.
Machine Stress-Rated: Mechanically tested for strength values.
Engineer Reviewed: Evaluated by a licensed engineer for specific loads.
In-situ Assessment: Evaluated in place before deconstruction.

Reclaimed Wood Glossary

Definitions of the most common terms you will encounter when shopping for, specifying, or working with reclaimed lumber.

Board Foot

A unit of lumber measurement equal to 144 cubic inches — equivalent to a board 1 inch thick, 12 inches wide, and 12 inches long. This is the standard unit used to price and measure hardwood lumber.

S4S (Surfaced Four Sides)

Lumber that has been planed smooth on all four faces — both flat surfaces and both edges. S4S lumber is ready for immediate use in finished projects without additional milling.

Skip-Planed

Lumber that has been lightly planed to reveal the wood grain and remove loose material while intentionally leaving some rough, original surface texture. This preserves the aged character of reclaimed wood while making it easier to work with.

Shiplap

A profile where boards are milled with a rabbet (step) cut along the top and bottom edges so that they overlap when installed horizontally. Popular for accent walls, siding, and ceiling treatments.

Tongue-and-Groove (T&G)

A milling profile where one edge has a protruding ridge (tongue) and the opposite edge has a corresponding groove. The pieces interlock for a tight, gap-free installation commonly used in flooring and paneling.

FAS (Firsts and Seconds)

The highest grade in the NHLA hardwood grading system. FAS boards must be at least 6 inches wide, 8 feet long, and yield at least 83.3% clear-face cuttings. This grade delivers the longest, widest, and cleanest boards.

Patina

The natural surface appearance that develops on wood over decades of exposure to air, light, and use. In reclaimed lumber, patina includes color changes, weathering marks, and subtle surface textures that cannot be replicated artificially.

Old-Growth

Timber harvested from forests that had matured over centuries without significant human disturbance. Old-growth wood has extremely tight, dense grain patterns because the trees grew slowly under heavy canopy competition. Most old-growth lumber available today comes from reclaimed sources.

Kiln-Dried (KD)

Lumber that has been dried in a controlled kiln to reduce its moisture content to a specified level, typically 6-8% for interior use. Kiln-drying at sufficient temperature also kills insects. Reclaimed lumber is sometimes kiln-dried again before use.

Moisture Content (MC)

The percentage of water in wood relative to its dry weight, measured with a pin or pinless moisture meter. Interior projects typically require 6-8% MC; exterior projects can tolerate 12-19% MC. Improperly dried wood will shrink, warp, or cup.

Janka Hardness

A standardized test measuring the force (in pounds) required to embed a 0.444-inch steel ball halfway into a wood surface. Higher Janka ratings mean harder, more dent-resistant wood. For example, red oak rates 1,290 lbf while heart pine rates 1,225 lbf.

Checking

Small cracks or splits that develop along the grain of wood as it dries and ages. Checking is a natural characteristic of reclaimed lumber and is generally cosmetic rather than structural. Surface checks often add desirable character.

Spalting

Distinctive dark lines and patterns in wood caused by fungal colonization during early stages of decomposition. Spalted wood is prized for its unique, marble-like appearance and is highly sought after for furniture, turning, and decorative applications.

Live Edge

Lumber where the natural outer edge of the tree — including bark line and irregular contour — is preserved rather than trimmed to a straight line. Live-edge slabs are popular for tables, countertops, shelving, and mantels.

Reclaimed

Wood that has been recovered from an existing structure (barn, factory, warehouse, bridge) or application and reprocessed for use in new projects. Reclaimed lumber can preserve old-growth character and keeps usable material in service.

Salvaged

Wood recovered from trees that have fallen naturally, been damaged by storms, or removed due to urban development or disease — rather than commercially logged from standing forests. Salvaged lumber is distinct from reclaimed lumber, which comes from existing structures.

Deconstructed

A structure that has been carefully disassembled by hand (as opposed to machine demolition) to maximize the recovery of reusable materials. Deconstruction preserves the integrity of lumber, hardware, and architectural elements.

De-Nailed

Lumber from which all nails, screws, staples, and embedded metal have been removed. De-nailing is a critical processing step for reclaimed wood and typically involves metal detection followed by hand extraction.

Character Grade

A grading designation for reclaimed lumber that includes natural imperfections such as knots, nail holes, checking, and color variation. Character-grade wood is intentionally selected for its visual interest and rustic appearance.

Dimensional Lumber

Lumber that has been milled to standardized widths and thicknesses (e.g., 2x4, 2x6, 2x8). Note that nominal dimensions differ from actual dimensions: a 2x4 actually measures 1.5 inches by 3.5 inches after surfacing.

Air-Dried

Lumber that has been dried naturally by exposure to outdoor air circulation, as opposed to kiln-drying. Air-drying is slower (months to years) and typically brings wood to 12-15% moisture content, suitable for many exterior applications.

Heartwood

The dense, dark inner core of a tree trunk. Heartwood is biologically inactive and naturally more resistant to decay and insects than sapwood. In many species, heartwood has the most desirable color and figure.

Resawn

Thick timbers that have been cut (resawn) into thinner boards on a bandsaw. Resawing reclaimed beams is an efficient way to produce large quantities of character-rich boards from a single piece of salvaged timber.

Project Planning

Guides by Project Type

Not sure where to start? Browse these resources by the type of project you are planning.

Flooring Projects

Guides for installing reclaimed hardwood floors, from subfloor preparation to finishing techniques.

Choosing the Right Reclaimed Wood 10 Benefits of Using Reclaimed Lumber

Beam & Timber Projects

Learn about structural reclaimed beams, decorative mantels, and exposed beam ceiling installations.

15 DIY Reclaimed Lumber Projects Benefits of Reclaimed Lumber

Furniture Making

Tips for building farmhouse tables, shelving, desks, and custom furniture from reclaimed wood.

DIY Reclaimed Lumber Projects Choosing the Right Reclaimed Wood

Accent Walls & Paneling

How to design and install reclaimed wood accent walls, wainscoting, and ceiling treatments.

DIY Reclaimed Lumber Projects Reclaimed Wood Carbon Footprint

Outdoor Projects

Best practices for using reclaimed lumber in decks, fences, pergolas, and garden structures.

Choosing the Right Reclaimed Wood Benefits of Reclaimed Lumber

Commercial Builds

Specifying reclaimed lumber for restaurants, retail spaces, offices, and hospitality interiors.

Reclaimed Wood Carbon Footprint Minneapolis Lumber History

Trade Professionals

For Architects & Designers

Reclaimed material takes a different approach than new stock, because supply depends on what has come out of existing buildings. These are the things worth settling early.

Specification Language

Describe the species, character level, dimensions, and moisture content you need, and allow for natural variation between boards.

Green Building Programs

Requirements for reused materials differ between rating systems and versions. Check the current requirements, and ask partner suppliers what source information they can give.

Samples and Finishes

See the actual material under your project lighting where you can. Ask partner suppliers what is available.

Availability

Raise reclaimed material early in the design phase, and confirm that enough consistent wood exists before you commit to it.

Builders & Trades

For Contractors

Whether you are a general contractor, finish carpenter, or specialty installer, a clear request gets you a more useful answer. Include these points when you ask partner suppliers what is available.

Quantities

Give your total board footage, including waste, and any substitutions you could accept. Ask the supplier how quantity affects pricing.

Job-Site Delivery

Delivery is available through partner suppliers. Include your site access and schedule in your request.

Milling and Preparation

If you need boards planed, resawn, or profiled, say so. A mill can do this work, and partner suppliers can tell you what is available.

Structural Use

Reclaimed lumber used structurally needs proper assessment. Check current regulations with your local building official.

From the Blog

Industry Organizations & Resources

Outside organizations with useful information on building, forestry, wood grading, and waste reduction. None of them is affiliated with Lumber Minneapolis.

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Send a free, no-obligation quote request with your project details. We pass your request to partner suppliers, and a partner supplier follows up.

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Resources & Guides

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Tools & Resources

Frequently Asked Questions

Blog & Articles

Lumber Math Cheat Sheet

Board Feet (BF)

Linear Feet to Board Feet

Square Feet to Board Feet

Weight Estimate (Oak)

Weight Estimate (White Pine)

Weight Estimate (Heart Pine)

Weight Estimate (Fir)

Waste Factors by Pattern

Straight Runs

Angled Cuts

Herringbone / Chevron

Coverage Factors for Profiled Boards

Species Identification Quick Guide

White Oak

Red Oak

Heart Pine

Douglas Fir

White Pine

Eastern Red Cedar

Hemlock

American Elm

Hard Maple

Black Walnut

American Chestnut

Hickory

Cherry

Ash

Poplar

Project Planning Worksheets

Flooring Worksheet

Example

Accent Wall Worksheet

Example

Beam Worksheet

Example

Furniture Worksheet

Example

Deck Worksheet

Example

Seasonal Guide for Minnesota

January - February

Humidity & Moisture

March - April

Humidity & Moisture

May - June

Humidity & Moisture

July - August

Humidity & Moisture

September - October

Humidity & Moisture

November - December

Humidity & Moisture

Care & Maintenance Library

Indoor Flooring Care

Exterior Siding Maintenance

Beam Care

Furniture Care

Countertop Care

Barn Door Maintenance

Deck Care

Accent Wall Care

Understanding Wood Movement

Why Wood Moves

How to Plan for Movement

Seasonal Movement by Species

Lumber Knowledge Base

Wood Species Comparison Chart

Dimensional Lumber Size Reference

Board Foot Conversion Quick Reference

Formula

Quick Examples

Pro Tip: Always Add a Waste Factor

Grading Standards Summary

NHLA Hardwood Grades